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When disaster strikes, having an emergency plan is essential. But as you plan for the worst (and hope for the best), don't forget about your pet's place in those plans. Thousands of animals were displaced by the storms and flooding that ravaged the Gulf Coast following Hurricane Katrina in 2005, and the recent floods in the Midwest have already forced thousands of residents—and their pets—out of their homes. Here are some tips to help you keep your pet safe in the event of a major emergency.

The first and most important step is to plan ahead. In the event of a hurricane, earthquake, flood or other natural disaster, you may be forced to evacuate your home. However, most disaster shelters, such as those maintained by the Red Cross, cannot accommodate pets, with the exception of service animals. Because of this, it's a good idea to work out some kind of emergency shelter plan for your pet. Contact hotels and motels outside your immediate area and find out if they allow pets, either in times of emergency or on a regular basis. Friends and relatives outside the affected area may also be able to care for your pet. Many veterinary hospitals and boarding kennels also provide shelter for animals in an emergency. Some hospitals, especially those in disaster-prone areas, have emergency plans in place for pets staying at the hospital. For example, Crescent City Veterinary Hospital in New Orleans adheres to a special "hurricane policy" from June through November, prime hurricane season in the Gulf Coast. Whichever method you choose, keep a list of these "pet friendly" emergency accommodations on hand and make arrangements as far in advance as possible.

Whatever you do, do not leave your pet at home. Leaving a pet alone during an emergency is likely to result in your pet being injured, lost or even worse. If you are forced to evacuate and cannot make shelter arrangements for your pet, bring him or her with you and try to find shelter for them along the way. In the case of floods, hurricanes, major storms and other disasters for which warnings are often issued in advance, start making preparations immediately. Confirm emergency shelter arrangements, bring your pets inside, and be sure all of your animal companions are wearing some sort of ID tag. Microchipping your pet is also a good way to ensure that you are able to find your pet should he or she become lost during an evacuation.

Having a disaster supplies kit for your pet is also helpful. This kit should include medications, medical records and a first aid kit, leashes and harnesses, a supply of food and portable water, a photo of your pet (in case he or she is lost), and bedding and a toy or two to keep your pet comfortable, if easy to transport. Preparations for each pet depend on the species and age of the pet. For example, birds should be transported in a secure cage or carrier, while snakes can be transported temporarily in a pillowcase until more secure housing can be found. Farm owners or those caring for horses and other large animals must also make special arrangements for evacuating or sheltering their animals at home.

For more information and detailed examples of emergency plans, The Humane Society of the United States maintains a list of disaster preparedness resources for pet owners on their website. Additionally, the American Red Cross and the Federal Emergency Management Agency have compiled a list of resources and tips for keeping animals safe during a disaster. Individual states may have their own disaster plans for animals. The American Veterinary Medical Association maintains a list of states with animal disaster plans.

This is one of the most exciting times for you as a proud new puppy owner! Now that you've chosen your puppy and brought him or her home, you're starting one of the most satisfying relationships in your life.

Your New Puppy - From birth to 3 months

He's round, he's soft and very cute, but don't let looks deceive you. Inside even a very young puppy - from birth to 12 weeks - there are already important social developments taking place. According to top breeders, there are two distinct stages for a puppy: socialization with dogs and then socialization with humans.

Stage One

The first phase, from roughly four to six weeks of age, is when interaction between your puppy and other dogs is of greatest importance. During this time, puppies learn how to socialize with dogs, as well as learn not to soil where they play, sleep or eat. Your puppy will also be weaned and moved from mothers milk to a quality brand puppy food.

Stage Two

From five to 12 weeks, your puppy begins to socialize with humans, so he should be handled by different people everyday and groomed weekly to become familiar with human touch. House and basic "manners" training can also begin during this period. Your puppy may also experience "fear/avoidance" behaviors between eight and 10 weeks. Even happy puppies may temporarily react to you with caution or alarm and react strongly to stressful situations, so don't let your puppy's fear scare you.

Your puppy's fear is a natural part of socialization and lasts for several weeks. By treating your puppy with patience and protecting him from stressful experiences, your puppy will emerge from the fear state to a trusting relationship with you.

Puppy Adolescence - 3 to 6 months old

Puppies grow up fast. In fact, from the time you adopt your puppy to the time he is six months old, your puppy will complete 75 percent of his growth! As you can imagine, this is a critical time in puppy development and by knowing what to expect, you can relax and be certain that your puppy is growing up on schedule.

What to Expect

• Many puppies become more independent and occasionally ignore their owner's calls during this period. It's wise to continue your established training routine; this will help your puppy grow through this phase.
• Your puppy will get all new teeth and chewing will begin. Use appropriate chew toys in order to keep your property and puppy safe.
• Establish yourself as the puppy's leader, mirroring wolf-pack behavior. Dogs are pack animals and need to know who's in charge. If you don't lead, they will.

Training the "Teenage" Puppy

6 to 9 months old

A puppy's "teenage years" - the time between 6 and 9 months - can be quite a challenge to a dog owner, but with consistent and thoughtful training, you can build on your puppy's early experience to turn your young dog into a great companion.

Although your puppy will not physically grow as quickly as he did between three and six months, important developments are taking place. During this time, your puppy will probably achieve sexual maturity and breeding or pregnancy will be possible. If you don't plan to breed your puppy, have him neutered or her spayed as close to the six month mark as possible. Pet overpopulation is a major problem in the U.S., with only one in four dogs having a proper home.

By the age of 6 months, it's best if your puppy is able to "sit" and "stay" on command and "come" when called. If you're not there yet, it's important to instill these good manners immediately.

Correction and Praise

Reprimanding your adorable puppy is frequently a stumbling block to training for new puppy owners. But, correcting your puppy is the only way to get his attention for training. That's why leash correction is so important. Correctly used, a leash gets your puppy's undivided attention so he can respond to your request. Just pulling on the leash is not enough - it only results in a tug of war.

Proper leash correction includes the following elements, which must work together:

A training (slip) collar of soft braided nylon. It should be snug going over the puppy's head, rest high on his neck and be positioned so the leash clips to the live (moving) ring on the back of your puppy's neck.

A comfortably-held leash, with slack so your puppy has enough room to make a mistake. A taut leash creates constant pressure on your puppy's neck, which will make him resist and is counterproductive to what you're trying to do.

A three-part correction of 1) verbal "no"; 2) leash tug/release; and 3) verbal "no," plus praise. In all of this work, it's important to praise your puppy consistently and appropriately. Giving praise at the right time will reinforce good behavior. Do not confuse your puppy by trying to reason with him or explain things. Your puppy will truly be happiest with clear commands and loving praise.

Puppy Playtime - The Good Stuff

Play is important to your puppy's development - that's why he needs at least 20 minutes of it every day. It develops coordination, stimulates his brain and relaxes him in social situations. Without play, your puppy won't develop into a happy, well-adjusted companion. So, here are several ways to make playtime a rewarding experience:

• Choose toys that stimulate active, entertaining play, like weighted balls that roll in unpredictable directions and rubber chew toys in various shapes.
• Rotate your puppy's toys each day so he always has "new" toys.
• If you have an enclosed outside run or yard, set up old tires or large clay conduit pipes for your puppy to explore and play in.
• Puppies love clean, used plastic bottles, old tennis balls, cardboard boxes and squeaky toys made for dogs. Squeaky toys help desensitize puppies to unusual noises.

Have you ever wondered what your pet is up to when you're away at work or on vacation? Perhaps they're quietly hanging out, anxiously awaiting your return, but more likely they're romping, playing and taking advantage of your absence to climb up on the furniture. But thanks to high-speed internet connections and advances in webcams, you can keep an eye on your pet at all times using pet cams.

Pet cams are webcams set up to monitor your pet. Hooked up to a computer with an internet connection, a pet cam can stream live video footage to a website that you can view from just about anywhere. Pet cams are handy for both keeping watch over your pet to make sure he or she isn't hurt or injured while you're away and for just watching your pet be him or herself. Computer-savvy pet owners often set up whole websites devoted to their pet cam. There are pet cams for almost every kind of pet, from sites devoted to dogs and cats to guinea pig and lizard cams. Websites such as pet-cams.com are a good place to start viewing how other pet cams are set-up. Pet-cams.com offers links to individual pets' sites, such as Guinness the Dog and The Little Beasts, a site devoted to Emrys and Bergamot, a pair of Boston Terriers.

You don't necessarily need to create a website in order to watch your pets via a pet cam, though. Services like MyPetCams.com is a free site that allows users to stream their pet cam on the MyPetCams.com website. Users can log in to their account from any place with an internet connection and see what their pet is doing.

Pet sitters, doggy daycare providers and other animal care providers are also on the pet cam bandwagon. Pet cams can give pet owners peace of mind when their companion is spending the day at a daycare or pet sitting facility. The site MyPetSitterCam.com acts as a pet cam portal for pet sitters. Once an account is established and a camera hooked up, pet sitters provide their clients with an web address where they can view the camera and watch their pets. Doggy daycare providers are also installing cameras in their facilities in order to give clients a pup's-eye-view of what's happening. Many companies are starting to take notice - Online Doggy helps kennels, daycares and other pet care providers install and connect pet cams to their websites. Other options include the Rover Cam, a small wireless camera that is attached to a harness on a dog, which truly let's pet owners see the world through their dog's eyes.

One reason cats are such popular pets is that they are extremely adaptable. Cats are self-sufficient and thrive just about anywhere people do with very little additional care. Nevertheless, a cat's age, sex and breed should be considered if you want the most suitable pet for your lifestyle.

A rural family with children running in and out of the house all day might be best suited for a sturdy, low maintenance American short-hair cat. A cat connoisseur might choose the unique look of the Ocicat, which, besides its spotted wild looking beauty, is known as one of the best companion cats. A long-haired cat or a high-strung, elegant Siamese might not be an ideal choice for an elderly person. The best companion for an older person or invalid might be an older, quiet cat who stays out from underfoot and is not too energetic. A Siamese cat, whose claws are sure to scratch expensive furniture, or a Persian, whose shedding might send a fastidious housekeeper into a broom swinging rage, might work well for an easygoing, young, childless couple.

The local library and local book store are probably good locations for acquiring information about cats. Attending cat shows and speaking with cat owners are excellent ways for obtaining information about specific breeds and temperaments. This article alone may provide you with most of the information you need for selecting your feline companion. Any pet professional; however, is going to tell you the same thing. The more you are informed, the better you are going to be satisfied with your decision.

Decide what type of cat you want (pet, breeder or show quality). If you cannot commit to the money or time, do not buy a show cat. If you are not going to breed your cat, it is not necessary to buy breeding stock.

Adult or Kitten

Both an adult cat and a kitten have their virtues. An adult cat is a ready-made companion. He (or she) is trained, self-sufficient, and ready to go. What's more, he may already be neutered and he knows how to take care of himself. When he's tired of playing, he may hide. If you need a mouser, he can probably learn the job within hours. Assuming he's healthy and comes from a good breeder or loving home, he should make an excellent pet.

On the other hand, adult cats are generally slower to adjust to new situations than are kittens. It may take some extra time and patience when introducing an older cat to other family pets. Until he adjusts, you may need to supervise and keep an eye on him so that he doesn't sneak out the door and try to return to his former home.

By starting out with an adult cat; however, you are going to miss the enjoyment as well as anguishes of living with a kitten.

Kittens are adorable, cuddly and amusing. Their nonsensical antics and youthful exuberance are a delight. Watching them learn and grow is unforgettable for all ages and an exciting experience for children.

Prepare to give your kitten lots of care during the first few weeks. You need to feed your young kitten several times a day and clean up after him. He may even need to sleep cuddled up next to you for a while. Kittens are constantly getting intro mischief, so put away your table top items until he's older. Finally, be prepared for a few trips to the veterinary hospital for exams, vaccinations, neutering and an occasional incident.

Pedigree Cats

If you plan to show or breed your cat and you are specific about what you want in looks and temperament, buy a pedigreed cat from a reputable breeder. A pure-bred cat can cost several hundred dollars; however, you are probably not going to mull over your investment in an exquisite, show quality feline.

If you definitely want a particular breed, but you don't need show quality and registration papers, you can probably purchase a "pet quality" kitten relatively inexpensively from a breeder. While color variations or other minor faults may make the animal unacceptable for breeding or showing, they usually don't affect his potential for becoming a wonderful pet.

Long-Haired or Short-Haired Cats

A short-haired cat requires less maintenance than a cat with long hair. If you are considering a long-haired cat, your tolerance for hair on carpets, furniture and clothing is a major factor to consider. Allergies are another factor to consider as long-haired cats may aggravate allergies more than short-haired cats. If you decide on a long-haired cat and want to keep him healthy, daily grooming is necessary. Regular brushing, and an occasional dose of a veterinary-approved cat laxative, should keep him free from hairballs. Both long-haired and short-haired cats should get a nail trim from time to time.

Male or Female

Males cats are generally larger than female cats. Neutered males normally don't spray and are mellower than non-neutered male cats because they are not driven by their hormones. Altered cats are more docile than non-neutered cats. Unless cat breeding is your goal, sex makes little difference in your choice. Spayed females do not produce generation after generation of unwanted kittens.

Dogs often bark (or howl) when they are exposed to or encounter something new. It is difficult to determine what makes an individual dog bark. The stimulus can vary from dog to dog and from household to household.

Barking can be attributed to various situations. Some include (but not limited to):

• The need for attention and affection
• Hunger or thirst
• Unusual or unfamiliar sounds
• Other animals entering their territory
• Humans (usually strangers) entering their territory
• Separation from members of the family (particularly their favorite person)
• Separation from members of their pack (other dogs or humans for that matter)
• The sight of their prey
• A heightened state of anxiety
• Medical problems - older, senile dogs in particular

PREVENTION

Socialization at an early age is extremely important. The puppy should come into contact with new people, new situations, and new environments. Animals that never leave their house or yard often tend to vocalize when in a new environment. Early leadership training is also important. The owner should have complete control and dominance over the dog.

The puppy should get accustomed to staying alone. He (or she) should be crate trained at an early age. This will allow him to become adjusted when the owner eventually leaves for a prolonged period of time.

Do not encourage the barking! Paying attention to him while he is barking only reinforces the behavior.

TREATMENT

Before this annoying habit can be broken, the owner must exhibit leadership and control over the dog. Obedience training is essential and a head halter collar is useful.

Exercise is important and allows the dog the opportunity to interact with other animals, new situations, and discover new environments.

A barking dog is told to "sit / stay." When the dog is quiet, he is given a reward. At each training session, the dog should remain quiet for a longer period of time before the reward is given.

The summer is made for lazing about in the sun and spending time outdoors, two activities cats love. But when the weather is warm, fleas are never far behind and as temperatures rise, it becomes increasingly important to protect your feline friend from hungry fleas.

Keeping fleas off your pet and out of your home is about more than just stopping your pet's constant scratching. Aside from itchy, irritating bites, fleas can cause the skin disease flea allergy dermatitis in both cats and dogs, as well as miliary dermatitis in cats. A single flea bite can trigger flea allergy dermatitis, which can lead to excessive scratching, hair loss and, potentially, a secondary bacterial infection. Miliary dermatitis consists of small bumps, called papules that eventually develop into crusts. Fleas can also transmit Dipylidium caninum, or double-pore tapeworm, a common tapeworm found in dogs and cats, as well as a number of other diseases.

Even if fleas aren't on your pet right now, they may be living in your home. There are four stages in a flea's life cycle: egg, larva, pupa and adult. It is only during the adult stage that the flea actually lives on an animal; during the other three stages, the flea lives in the surround environment. Immature fleas usually account for about 90 to 95 percent of the total flea population in a home. A good rule of thumb is that for every flea you find on your pet, there are about 100 more immature fleas living in the surrounding environment.

The average flea can live for anywhere between 12 days and 180 days, though the typical lifespan of a flea lasts three to six weeks. But even in that short amount of time, an adult female can lay more than 1,000 eggs, which means that even only one tiny flea can result in big problems.

How can you tell if fleas have invaded your home and latched on to your dog? Scratching is the first sign. During feeding, fleas inject saliva into the skin of the animal; this saliva contains proteins that cause allergic skin reactions, which leads to bouts of rubbing and scratching. Fleas are most commonly found on cats around the base of the tail and on the head, neck and ears. If you suspect your cat has fleas but cannot see them, check for "flea dirt." This is the excrement of the flea and consists of a mix of feces and dried blood. To find flea dirt, have your pet lay on the ground and place a piece of white paper underneath him or her. Brush your pet and let the paper collect any dirt or debris. Next, add a few drops of water to the dirt on the paper; if dried blood is present, the water will take on a reddish color, indicating the presence of flea dirt.

During the last several years, significant improvements have been made to flea control products. Oral and topical medications containing insect growth regulators (IGR) and insect development inhibitors (IDI) disrupt the flea's maturation process and stop infestations before they begin. These treatments are less toxic for pets and the environment and more effective in controlling fleas.

Topical treatments are more effective than past products because they remain on the surface of the pet's skin, where they are toxic only to fleas, rather than absorbed into the pet's bloodstream. Below is a list of common flea control products available through your veterinarian. Flea control products designed for dogs should never be used on cats. Products containing pyrethrin- or pyrethroid-based chemicals can be dangerous and possibly fatal for your cat. Keep dogs and cats separate immediately after applying flea control products.

Advantage: Developed by Bayer, Advantage is a topical solution containing the active ingredient imidacloprid, which acts on the nervous system of the flea. Advantage stops biting fleas within three to five minutes of initial application and kills adult fleas within an hour. Advantage also kills flea larvae within 20 minutes of contact. Advantage should be applied monthly and is available only through your veterinarian.

Advantage Multi: This topical solution combines imidacloprid, the same flea-killing ingredient found in Advantage, with moxidectin, which prevents heartworm disease and treats and controls intestinal worms such as hookworms, roundworms and whipworms. Advantage Multi should be applied monthly in order to best control fleas and parasites and is available by prescription only.

Frontline Top Spot: A topical solution similar to the Frontline Spray developed by Merial in 1996, Frontline Top Spot provides protection from both fleas and ticks. The active ingredients are fipronil, which kills adult fleas on dogs. Frontline should be applied monthly and remains waterproof for 30 days.

Frontline Plus: This flea control product is similar to Frontline Top Spot but also contains methoprene, which disrupts the flea's maturation process by killing eggs and larvae. Like Frontline Top Spot, Frontline Plus provides protection from fleas and ticks for 30 days.

ProMeris: Developed by Fort Dodge Animal Health (Wyeth), ProMeris uses the active ingredient metaflumizone to kill and repel fleas. Metaflumizone causes neuron disruptions in fleas, resulting in loss of coordination, paralysis and death. ProMeris is available by prescription and should be used monthly for best results.

Revolution: Developed by Pfizer, Revolution prevents, kills and controls a number of parasites, including fleas and ear mites. Revolution is also effective in preventing heartworm disease and treating roundworm. Revolution contains selamectin. When applied, the drug enters the bloodstream through the skin; concentrations of Revolution in the blood and tissue prevent heartworm disease, while concentrations in the skin protects against fleas and flea eggs.

Vectra: This flea control product is available in two forms, one for cats and kittens over 8 weeks of age and under 9 pounds, and another for cats weighing 9 pounds or more. The active ingredients in both are dinotefuran and pyriproxyfen which are effective in killing adult fleas and flea larvae. Vectra is a topical solution and should be applied monthly. It is available by prescription from your vet.